Cooking with seasoned air sounds like a health gimmick run amok but it describes a classic technique that boasts bold taste and presentation. A meal prepared en papillote (French), or al cartoccio (Italian), means that several ingredients have been steam-baked together in sealed parcels. Though steamed entrées often imply little taste and an overall, soggy ensemble, cooking en papillote contains and circulates flavors, combining individual essences into a harmonized whole. The concentrated steam heat inside the parcel cooks proteins quickly, keeps meats tender, and traps aromatics to provide ample seasoning. No additional stocks or sauces are required to liven up this dish; the flavor is already in the bag.
The oldest methods of cooking en papillote refer to the use of leaves for wrapping before steaming or grilling. The modern preparation utilizes foil, parchment, or Carta Fata–a kitchen grade cellophane that withstands temperatures up to 440 degrees. Where foil packets lack the ritual of the indigenous husk, and parchment paper browns in the oven, Carta Fata offers modern panache in a clear sachet gathered with twine or raffia that can be ceremoniously unraveled tableside.
It is important to think about how ingredients will interact when crafting a recipe en papillote. Leafy greens often release too much moisture and can water down the other flavors. Similarly, hearty meats might overpower subtle accompaniments. Ingredients that work best for this cooking style are fish filets or boneless chicken, root vegetables, fresh herbs, spices, and small portions of cured meats that will infuse the final dish with a mild, smoky flavor. En papillote recipes are quick fixes for one, or perfect portions for a larger party. With a careful fold or a final knot, this dinner idea is simply a cinch.
Funghi al cartoccio al forno (baked mushrooms in a bag)
Serves 4
An appetizer recipe
(lightly adapted from Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Italy)
4 slices prosciutto
4 sprigs each fresh sage, rosemary, and thyme
14 ounces mixed shiitake and cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
White wine (for sprinkling)
1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Place a 13 inch x18 inch baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven.
2. Fold a 12 inch x18 inch piece of parchment paper in half horizontally. Cutting as close to the edge of the paper as possible, make a half-heart shape. When unfolded, the paper will look like a full heart.
3. Spread a slice of prosciutto on the left side of the heart, at least 1inch from the cut edge. Top the prosciutto with 1/4 of the mushrooms and a sprig of each herb, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Cover the ingredients by folding the right side of the heart over the left.
4. Starting at the top of the heart, at the point closest to the folded spine of the package, fold both layers of the paper towards the center of the packet, creating a lip about 2 inches wide and 1/2 inch tall. Continue to make these folds around the perimeter of the package, partially overlapping the previous fold with the current one. At the final opening at the heart’s point, drizzle the white wine into the packet and then twist the point twice, counterclockwise, to form a corkscrewed end that will seal the packet and anchor the series of folds. Repeat to form the other 3 parcels.
5. Place the packets on the baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes or until fully inflated.
6. Let diners cut into the aromatic packets at the table.
The oldest methods of cooking en papillote refer to the use of leaves for wrapping before steaming or grilling. The modern preparation utilizes foil, parchment, or Carta Fata–a kitchen grade cellophane that withstands temperatures up to 440 degrees. Where foil packets lack the ritual of the indigenous husk, and parchment paper browns in the oven, Carta Fata offers modern panache in a clear sachet gathered with twine or raffia that can be ceremoniously unraveled tableside.
It is important to think about how ingredients will interact when crafting a recipe en papillote. Leafy greens often release too much moisture and can water down the other flavors. Similarly, hearty meats might overpower subtle accompaniments. Ingredients that work best for this cooking style are fish filets or boneless chicken, root vegetables, fresh herbs, spices, and small portions of cured meats that will infuse the final dish with a mild, smoky flavor. En papillote recipes are quick fixes for one, or perfect portions for a larger party. With a careful fold or a final knot, this dinner idea is simply a cinch.
Funghi al cartoccio al forno (baked mushrooms in a bag)
Serves 4
An appetizer recipe
(lightly adapted from Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Italy)
4 slices prosciutto
4 sprigs each fresh sage, rosemary, and thyme
14 ounces mixed shiitake and cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
Olive oil (for sprinkling)
White wine (for sprinkling)
1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Place a 13 inch x18 inch baking sheet on the middle rack of the oven.
2. Fold a 12 inch x18 inch piece of parchment paper in half horizontally. Cutting as close to the edge of the paper as possible, make a half-heart shape. When unfolded, the paper will look like a full heart.
3. Spread a slice of prosciutto on the left side of the heart, at least 1inch from the cut edge. Top the prosciutto with 1/4 of the mushrooms and a sprig of each herb, season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Cover the ingredients by folding the right side of the heart over the left.
4. Starting at the top of the heart, at the point closest to the folded spine of the package, fold both layers of the paper towards the center of the packet, creating a lip about 2 inches wide and 1/2 inch tall. Continue to make these folds around the perimeter of the package, partially overlapping the previous fold with the current one. At the final opening at the heart’s point, drizzle the white wine into the packet and then twist the point twice, counterclockwise, to form a corkscrewed end that will seal the packet and anchor the series of folds. Repeat to form the other 3 parcels.
5. Place the packets on the baking sheet and cook for 15 minutes or until fully inflated.
6. Let diners cut into the aromatic packets at the table.
Miam,
ReplyDeletei do it this day with "cote agneau cannelle et curry"
i love this book
have a good day
from paris,France